Tuesday, September 30, 2008

1940s Black Wool Dress

Not one, but three darts give shape to the bust in a 1940's dress. The darts are sewn on the outside of the dress for an interesting design detail.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Vintage 40s Hattie Carnegie Brown Faux Fur Hat with Spangles Paillettes

A 1940's Hattie Carnegie hat has the brim covered in shiny black Paillettes or Spangles. A Spangle or Paillette is a plate, sequin or bead of shining metal or plastic used for ornamentation.

Saturday, September 27, 2008

1960s Balenciaga Suit

Passementerie trim replaced buttons on the jacket of an early 60's Balenciaga Adaptation suit by Dan Millstein. Passementerie is defined as heavy embroideries, braid, beads, lace, and gimp trims used as edging.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Vintage 50s Blue Illusion Lace Beaded Waist Dress

Tiny colored pearl beads are sewn in a floral pattern to match the floral lace of a 1950's dress. Along with the waist tucks, this helps to draw the eye to the midsection of the dress.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

1930s Satin Jacquard Dress with Jacket

Self fabric cording is threaded through small holes pierced at the edges of the jacket. The cords are knotted and braided through the holes to make an interesting edge trim.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Vintage 60's Brown Pleather Raised Pattern Purse

Self fabric pleather laces are woven in a large criss cross fashion on both sides of a purse creating a unique windowpane pattern. Pleather is a plastic fabric made to look like leather.

Monday, September 22, 2008

1940s Jack Frost Suit Jacket

A big navy bow is appliqued to the yoke of a 1940's suit jacket. The applique is edged with narrow loop braid and adorned with tiny navy seed beads. Note how the fabric covered halo buttons use both colors of the wool gabardine.

Friday, September 19, 2008

Vintage 50s Alix of Miami Bombshell Black Lace Swimsuit Playsuit

Elastic shirring creates the fit on the bodice of a 1950's black lace swimsuit. Elasticized stitching gives stretch to fabric panel that has no inherent give.

Thursday, September 18, 2008

1980s Stanley Platos Dress

Ribbon is applied to lace to accent the floral pattern. The ribbon is stitched down the center with straight machine stitching, which forms an interesting 3-dimensional effect.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Vintage 1960s Tweed Nehru Jacket

A Nehru jacket is a hip-length tailored coat for men or women, with a stand-up or "mandarin" collar. The jacket originated in India in the 1940's, but became popularized in the 1960's when the Beatles wore them for their Shea Stadium concert in 1965.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

1950s Paul Parnes Suit

A bit of beading adds a feminine touch to the neckline of a wool dress. The wool is cut away between the beads and backed with silk tulle for a glimpse of skin.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Vintage 50s Alix of Miami Swimsuit Bathing Suit

Self fabric is sewn to form 3D petals on a 50s Alix of Miami Swimsuit. The flower is complete with leaves and a stem of the same fabric in alternating colors.

Friday, September 12, 2008

1950s Brocade & Silk Satin Evening Gown

The floral design on the brocade bodice is carefully cut along the edge and appliqued over the silk satin waistband on a 1950's evening gown. More brocade appliques are applied by hand to the draped swag.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Vintage 50s Belgian Walborg Clutch Purse

Black seed beads are hand sewn on a long clutch purse to create a circular pattern which becomes the overall design.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

1970s Moroccan Tunic

Soutache braid in three colors is applied in intricate swirls on a vintage 1970s Moroccan tunic. The braid is applied by stitching down the center with a machine straight stitch in matching color thread.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Vintage 50's Shaheen Wiggle Dress

Alfred Shaheen was a master printer and was one of Hawaii's most successful entrepreneurs. He built his own machinery to print, dye and finish his own fabrics for his fashions which helped to distinguish his designs and vastly increase his manufacturing.

Monday, September 8, 2008

1940s Lilli Ann Suit

Lilli Ann laps a curved edge over a pointed one for the sleeve cuff on this 1940's suit. Note how the brown velveteen also accents the edge of the slit.

Friday, September 5, 2008

Vintage 70s Black Lace Bodice Nightgown

A keyhole opening on the midriff of this 70s Olga gown is topped with a bow and has a piped edge. A keyhole is a peek-a-boo opening that could be found on the neckline, front of a garment or the back.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

1970s Bonnie Cashin Coat

A welted opening floats within a larger patch pocket edged in leather binding. This is a signature design found on many Bonnie Cashin coats.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Vintage 70s Black Ruffled Tuxedo Collar & Sleeves Wool Maxi Dress

Tuxedo styling with pinstripe and ruffled trim on a 70s wool maxi dress. Matching ruffled trim on the stand up collar, bodice and sleeve endings add visual interest.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

1950s Tooled Leather Purse

Elaborate tooling on leather handbags from Mexico was very popular in the 1950s. Tooling is done by dampening the leather and using various carving and burnishing tools, along with stamps and a rubber mallet. The leather is then dyed and made into the finished product.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Vintage 1980s Ruched Black Knit Jersey Gown

Ruching is a technique in which fabric is gathered creating soft pleats or tucks. The ruching on the shoulders, bodice and waistline gives this 80's gown a Grecian Goddess look.